There are many different types of outdoor gazebo. Some are permanent structures built out of wood, metal, or stone, and others are built out of lightweight materials, and intended to be used as a portable shelter. The latter is basically an open-sided tent, making it convenient, highly portable, and easy to install for almost anyone.

Choosing a Gazebo Type

The type of gazebo you need depends on what you plan to use it for. A portable gazebo is great for festivals or special events at home, but they have the advantage of being transportable, and can be set up almost anywhere, including at the beach, camping, or take along on vacations. A permanent gazebo looks more like a classic gazebo, and is fixed in place with a poured slab or posts and columns that are buried in the ground. If you only need the gazebo occasionally, or want to be able to use it in many different places, consider using a portable gazebo, and storing it away between uses.

Types of Gazebos

Permanent gazebos are typically made of wood, and resemble either the classic Victorian gazebo, or an oriental pagoda with a flared top and heavy beams.  Permanent gazebos are available in complete kits, or as a set of plans which list the parts required. Portable gazebos are often referred to as portable shelters, gazebo tents, or simply open tents. They are constructed with specially designed frames that interlock for added support, and are often covered with canvas or vinyl canopies. Another variation is to cover the outdoor gazebo with a netting, which keeps dirt, debris and insects out without sacrificing the benefits of direct sunlight.

The Layout

When you lay out an outdoor gazebo, increase the required diameter by at least 10 feet, or a 5 foot cleared area going all the way around the gazebo. This safety zone helps to prevent trips and falls, and provides the gazebo user with a place to add outdoor seating or tables. For the gazebo itself, the frame is intended to be placed on reasonably level ground. Rocky, uneven terrain will reduce the stability of the gazebo, possibly even requiring tie lines or the use of stand-alone frame mounts.

Portable Gazebo Assembly

To make building gazebos a little easier, many people use 5 gallon plastic buckets filled with sand as the corner foundations. This allows independently adjusting the posts higher or lower by adding or removing sand from the container. As a rule, if any frame post, when placed on the actual ground surface, is more than 6 inches higher or lower than any other post, artificial leveling is probably called for. Most gazebo plans will offer this or other solutions, and details for implementing them.

Using a Gazebo Kit

Using a gazebo kit is the best way to learn how to build a gazebo. A kit provides a complete set of plans, and any proprietary hardware that may be required. Most kits include the building materials, but will only provide the canopy, and the builder is responsible for purchasing other materials. A kit is many times more complicated than a pop-up gazebo, but kits are also designed for permanent placement, and meant to serve you well for many years

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If you’ve just moved into your first house or just moved out on your own, you’re going to be faced with a bunch of DIY jobs and you’re going to need tools. A combination screwdriver and toy hammer from the convenience store won’t be enough and borrowing tools from a neighbor or your Dad gets old pretty fast. But at the price of tools, who can afford to just go out and buy a full set of tools and besides, how do you know what your really need? Here’s some ideas on how you can go about building your own home hand tool kit while not blowing up your credit cards up as well as some suggestions on what you should be putting into that tool kit.

Start by buying tools only when you need them

• You can keep the cost of building your tool kit low if you just buy tools as you need them. For example, if you’re hanging a picture you need a hammer, a level and possibly some pliers, you don’t need a crescent wrench or a pry bar. So when you go to buy tools, just buy the ones you need for the job at hand. Buy others only as you need them. 
• Some tools are commonly sold in sets (screwdrivers, pliers) so even when you set out to buy only what you need you’ll be getting an added bonus at building you tool kit faster

Buy quality

• This sounds expensive, but when you’re buying tools you usually get what you pay for. Buying cheap tools is a false economy, since they often don’t work well, won’t last and when they break, you’ll just end up needing to buy new ones. 
• Buying quality tools don’t mean you need to go all the way up to top of the line, contractor grade tools. There are lots of quality toolmakers that make good quality tools at reasonable prices. Sears Craftsmen and home store brand name tools are good quality hand tools and often come with a lifetime warranty, so you know these tools are made to last.

Watch for sales and special offers

• Sometimes you need to bend the “buy tools only when you need them” rule. Seasonally and around special days (Father’s Day for example) home and department stores often have specials on their brand name tools. Most times these are good values, so keep your eye on the ads and flyers and you can pick up some good tools at very reasonable prices.

So now we know how to build our tool kits economically, but what hand tools should actually be in our home tool kit? Here’s the basics -

• Hammer – a 16-ounce hammer with a curved claw for pulling nails is a necessity. Choose one with a fiberglass or metal handle with a non-slip rubber grip.
• Tape measure – a 10-foot retractable tape measure will do for most jobs around the house, but a 16 or even 25 footer will undoubtedly come in handy on some projects. Look for one that retracts automatically and has a locking mechanism Tape measures are often sold in groups of two or three of various lengths so watch for the specials. 
• Screwdrivers – You’re going to need a small, medium and large screwdriver for at least three different screw head shapes - Phillips (X shaped), standard (- shaped) and Robertson (square headed). You may also run into a need for a Torx shaped screwdriver (five sided), but these heads are still relatively rare. Screwdrivers are also commonly sold in sets of 3, 6 or 9.
• Adjustable wrenches – “Crescent wrenches” -again in small, medium and large sizes will allow you to take on most nuts or bolts.
• Utility knife – Get a metal handled one (not plastic), with a retractable replaceable blade. The metal knife will be easier to work with, less likely to break in action and will last longer.
• Pliers – Again you’ll need at least three different shapes. Needle nose, standard/slip joint and diagonal wire cutters. Look for store brand sets of all three.
• Hand saw – For small jobs a 14” hand saw that fits into your toolbox is handy to have. While you wouldn’t want to try cutting a 2 x 4 with it, it will certainly do for cutting smaller pieces of wood and since it fits into your tool box, it will always be close to hand.
• Level – You can’t go by your eye. A 9” torpedo level (it’s silhouette is actually similar to a torpedo) fits into any tool box and is good for small jobs like hanging pictures. A 24” or 32” level will be necessary for larger jobs
• Latching toolbox to hold all your tools. You’d be amazed how quickly tools can scatter when you’re doing a few jobs. Having a toolbox to keep everything in one place will make your life much less aggravating.

Finally, a few sheets of sandpaper in a variety of grits (80, 120, 150) and a collection of different sized screws and fasteners (again, often sold in sets complete with a rack and plastic drawers) will complete your handy home tool kit.

Murray Anderson is an experienced freelance writer over 500 articles published on the web as well as in print magazines and newspapers in both the United States and Canada. He writes on a wide range of topics and is a regular contributor to DoItYourself.com. He can be contacted by email at - murand@lycos.com

Murray Anderson, Home Repair & Improvement

Over the past 25 years, Murray Anderson has tackled practically every home improvement project imaginable. An avid DIYer, he has upgraded, remodeled, and refurbished his homes all on his own. Now he has turned his focus to sharing that expertise with his DoItYourself.com readers.

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How to Build Fixed Position Wood Shelving Units

Additional shelving is useful in almost every home and can be added quickly and easily. And it need not be expensive. Consider adding shelves in your basement, attic, kitchen and other areas to help keep stored materials much neater and to save time when looking for stored items.

• You can make basic, non-adjustable shelving from solid boards of almost any size or width. Such shelving is easy to make and provides adequate support for normal storage and shelving needs. The disadvantage of non-adjustable shelving is that some stored objects may be too tall or short, thus wasting space on the shelving you construct. You can overcome this problem by making shelves for tall objects and other shelves for short objects. Give a little thought to the materials you plan to store so you can design the shelves to minimize wasted space.

• Non-adjustable shelving is normally used in closets, attics, basements, work areas, etc., where appearance and adjustability are not very important. These shelves can be nailed together with support pieces to provide the structural strength required. Small cleats can provide the needed support for other types of non-adjustable shelves. These shelves can be made as wide or as long as necessary. Wood shelving of this type should have supports every 3'. If the shelving will hold extremely heavy loads, use supports as frequently as every 2-1/2'. Use extreme care when nailing the cleats onto the side boards. Use a T-square or a level to make sure the shelves are in the proper position and are evenly spaced at all points.

• The way in which you drive the nails will increase or decrease the ability of the shelves to carry heavy loads. For example, nails driven at an upward angle are likely to pull out when a heavy load is placed on them. If the nails are driven straight into the supporting wall, the cleat has a fair supporting strength. However, nails driven at a downward angle greatly increase the ability of the cleat to carry a heavy load. Keep this in mind when nailing cleats for supporting shelves.

• Wider cleats, as shown, provide a great deal of structural strength. They also make it possible for the shelves to be moved in and out as necessary. If you are designing shelves to carry extremely heavy loads, use wide cleats and nail them firmly into position.

How To Design and Build Adjustable Wood Shelving Units

• Use a simple dado cut in the side support for adjustable wood shelves. Dado cuts can be inserted at any desired spacing to provide as many adjustments as you need. You can also use dado cuts for permanent non-adjustable shelving. For adjustable shelving, the dado cuts must be relatively deep. For permanent shelving, the cuts can be shallow.

• The dado cut shown is visible from the front of the shelf. If this is objectionable, make a concealed dado cut for a neater, less conspicuous shelf joint. Again, use a dado cut for either adjustable or non-adjustable shelving. An adjustable shelf requires a deeper concealed dado cut. The shelf is notched in the front for concealing the dado cut.

• A pinned joint provides structural strength for long lengths of shelving. The supporting piece can be inserted or removed as required.

• You can create another type of adjustable shelving by making cuts at 90-degree and 45-degree angles. The shelf can then be cut to the same 45-degree angle and fitted into the sawed slots. This type of shelving is not designed to carry extremely heavy loads. The 45-degree cut in the end of the shelf slightly weakens the supporting strength of the shelf.

• This Illustration shows a modified version of the 90-degree and 45-degree angle cuts for adjustable shelving. Cut the notches continuously to provide a shelf adjustment about every 1". If the shelving notches are carefully cut, they create quite a pleasing effect. You can insert box units to improve both the appearance and the function of the adjustable shelves.

• Another design for adjustable shelves requires a 1x4 board of the desired length for the base. First, drill holes at the desired intervals. You can usually use holes of 3/4" bored at 3/4" intervals.

• When all holes are drilled into the 1 by 4 piece of wood, split the wood down the middle and mount it to provide end supports for the shelves. Each 1 by 4, when drilled and split, makes two shelf supports or adequate supports for one end of the shelf. You must drill two identical 1 by 4s to make supports for both ends of each shelf. Be sure to drill the holes in exactly the same positions and at the same spacing intervals so they match when affixed at each end of the shelf. Once the 1 by 4 has been drilled and split, carefully sand and finish it for a neat appearance.

• Use this same treatment for making deep, sliding shelves for linens or other storage in closets. These shelves are inserted with the long measurement going into the closet rather than spanning the closet width. The end of each shelf must be rounded and sanded to fit into the curved areas of the shelf supports.

Metal and Wood Bracketing Hardware for Adjustable Shelves

• Most adjustable shelves are supported by metal brackets. These brackets are inexpensive and much easier to use than most wooden supports. Special brackets that fit into drilled holes make good supports for light shelving. Drill holes into the supporting walls of the shelf at the desired spacing intervals. Then, slip the bracket into the hole and lay the shelf on the two supporting brackets. These brackets can be adjusted upward or downward to make room for large or small items. Although easy to handle, use these brackets only for supporting light storage loads.

• You can use simple dowel pins instead of metal brackets to make adjustable shelves. Insert the dowel pins in the drilled holes. They can be inserted or removed to adjust the shelving up or down quickly and easily. Dowel pins are easy to use, but they do not support heavy loads and they tend to wear or give way under extended use. Metal shelf brackets are preferable.

• A special flush-type shelf bracket is fitted into grooves for extreme neatness and flexibility. This shelving bracket provides more than sufficient structural strength for normal storage purposes. It is inexpensive, very effective and easy to use. For mounting grooved shelving brackets of this type, use a dado cut for each bracket in the supporting end of the shelf.

• The regular shelf bracket and standard is perhaps the most widely used shelf support. Readily available from many sources, it is easy to install and neat in appearance. The shelf standard and bracket makes it easy to build shelves quickly and to remove them when they are no longer needed.

Courtesy of NRHA

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Project Introduction Overview

Everyone enjoys the look and utility of good outdoor furniture. Due to the high cost of buying, many do it yourselfers are making their own custom pieces. In these pages we are going to show you the correct way to build an outdoor table in your own workshop. We will take you through step by step, from initial planning to the finished product.

Planning

Go through the tools and materials checklist carefully. Know the safety standards for the project. Plan to gather the items that you will be using, and place them where you will be building. The outdoor table is very large; you must plan its location so you can take it outside upon completion. If you don't have enough space inside to build it, then assemble it on a driveway or other flat area.

Look down the list and find materials of the same kind and thickness. Plan to buy these materials in a size that will produce the number of pieces you will need with the least amount of waste. Add up the total number of board feet, being careful to make sure you group short pieces in a board with long pieces to minimize waste.

Due to corrosion, special care should be taken when selecting materials. Look for hot dipped galvanized fasteners when assembling outdoor furniture. Also for any gluing, look on the label to see if the glue is waterproof. This will keep the furniture sturdy for years.

The design for outdoor furniture is very different from in door designs. There is less intricate detail but a higher degree of sturdiness. The cuts are made once, so measure twice and cut carefully leaving no extra length on the ends.

Safety Tips

1.     Safety glasses or goggles should be worn whenever power tools are in use and when chiseling, sanding, scraping or hammering overhead. This is very important if you wear contact lenses.

2.     Wear ear protectors when using power tools. Some operate at noise levels that damage hearing.

3.     Be careful of loose hair and clothing so that it does not get caught in tools.

4.     The proper respirator or face mask should be worn when sanding or sawing or using substances with toxic fumes.

5.     Keep blades sharp. A dull blade requires excessive force and can slip which causes accidents.

6.     Always use the right tool for the job.

7.     Repair or discard tools with cracks in the wooden handles or chips in the metal parts.

8.     Don't drill, shape or saw anything that isn't firmly secured.

9.     Oily rags are spontaneously combustible. Take care when you store and discard them.

10.   Don't abuse your tools.

11.   Keep a First Aid Kit on hand.

12.   Do not work with tools when you are tired. That's when most accidents occur.

13.   Read the owner's manual for all tools and know the proper use of each.

14.   Keep tools out of reach of small children.

15.   Unplug all power tools when changing settings or parts.

Know Where Your Hands Are At All Times!

Most Common Mistakes

The single most common mistake in any do it yourself project is the failure to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for any tool or material being used. Other common mistakes include taking the safety measures that are laid out for a project for granted, and poor project planning. Here is a list of hints to successfully complete a project and to do it safely

.

1.     Follow the "Golden Rule" of measuring: "Measure twice, cut once."

2.     Provide yourself plenty of time for each step.

3.     Know your plan

4.     When finishing the wood, keep dust and dirt away from the cabinet.

5.     Follow the instructions on your choice of finish carefully.

6.     Drill holes in table legs after you are sure everything is aligned.

7.     Always use rustproof fasteners, such as hot dipped galvanized metal.

8.     Use a siding nail on top of the table. Their heads are smaller than common nails and will not be as visible. Brass ring shanked boat nails are excellent if available.

9.     Be sure to use waterproof glue on the planter box.

10.   Be sure to drill pilot holes before driving nails near the end of boards.

11.   Be sure your cuts are the specified dimension and cut at the proper angle.

12.   Use a jig or a stop block on a table saw to be sure to get several boards cut identically.

Plans

To make the table larger, add four inches to the length of the long spokes, add two inches to the length of the short spokes, plus two inches to the length of the planks. Move the legs two inches farther away from the center and the result is an increase of seating by four inches in diameter. Also you will need to increase the number of top planks.

If you increase the length you will also have to figure out how long each course (or circle) of planks will be. If you are using 3 1/2" wide boards (2 x 4's) the individual planks in each row will be 4 1/4" shorter than the row to the outside, assuming a 1/4" space between rows for drainage.

Terminology

These are some terms that you need to be familiar with:

1.     Miter Cut - Angle cut across the width or thickness of the board

2.     Cleats - (or supports) Small boards that support the seat ends.

3.     Gussets - Round pieces of wood that strengthen the center of the spokes.

4.     Kerf - Width of the blade

5.     Dowel - Wooden pin used to provide strength and alignment

Wood Selection

Outdoor furniture needs to be durable and resist rot, decay, and water stain. Three natural heartwoods are preferred for this: redwood, cedar and cypress. These woods contain natural oils that tolerate the weather and both have warm, rich colors. A heartwood is the wood from the center of the tree. The area around the center carries the sap in the tree and is called sap wood.

Another material that is widely used in constructing outdoor furniture is pressure treated wood. This is a less expensive choice than natural rot resistant woods and more readily available. When you make the cuts on this type of wood, a water repellent will need to be applied to the end grain because the pressure treatment only penetrates 1/4" to 1/2" into the wood.

Looking for a picnic table? Compare brands, types and prices with our

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Versatile and creative a wood fence can be an excellent choice. You can expect years of protection, value and privacy. The sheer beauty look of wood is the primary reason to select it as your fencing material. A properly designed, finely crafted woods and skillfully installed wood fence takes on an individual quality all its own-independent of its surroundings. Matched to the style of your house and grounds, it will enhance your home's appearance and add to its value. But as with any investment, it pays to do your homework and research. Wood fencing comes in a wide range of qualities, colors, sizes and types. Before you buy, spend a little time getting to know what's type of woods currently available. You'll get the most value for your money. And the right fence for your need to your mansion.

What material should you choose? 

Most fences are made from wood. It's affordable, versatile and easy to obtain. It comes in uniform sizes, and it's the easiest material for a homeowner to use. You can finish it with paint or stain. Or, if you use treated wood or cedar, you can let it age to a natural color.

Proper installation is the key to an attractive, long-lasting fence. The single greatest problem with wood fences is premature failure of the posts. Wood does not hold up well to ground contact and once the posts begin to fail, the appearance of the fence is compromised. I believe the best solution is to use steel posts to construct your wood fence. At the very least, be sure you use quality posts and rails made from softwoods that are naturally rot resistant such as cedar or redwood, or those that have been pressure-treated to limit rotting. Buy hot-dip-galvanized, aluminum and stainless steel fasteners, which are all corrosion-resistant. Other types are not recommended because they can rust and disintegrate, or react adversely with the natural preservative oils present in some wood.

The appearance quality of the boards you choose will make all the difference in the way your finished fence looks. You'll find different grades that meet the quality specifications of published grading rules or product standards. These standards have been developed to ensure the structural integrity and appearance you'd expect for the intended use of the product.

Typical wood grade descriptions are:

• Clear - Its limited number of natural characteristics make it the grade to specify when you want a fence board with the highest-quality appearance. This is the most expensive of all the grades mentioned.
• Premium (also referred to as #1 two face) - The occasional small tight knot adds interest to this type of fence. This lumber is graded for the same appearance on both faces (sides) and edges.
• Select (#1 one face) - The same as premium on one face, it allows limited defect characteristics on the other face.
• Standard - Allows more appearance defects than select or premium on one graded face and limited defect characteristics on the other face.
• Standard and Better - Allows more appearance defects than select or premium on one graded face and limited defect characteristics on the other face.
• Quality - This economy grade has greater limiting characteristics and is the lowest cost. Knots that may become knotholes can be expected with this grade of product.

Remember that one key to an attractive fence is uniformity. For example, when using rough-sawn lumber, uniform natural characteristics will make the finished project more pleasing. The grade of lumber will determine the number and size of defects. If you opt for lower cost grades, you should expect defects to be consistent with that grade. Some retailers will permit you to sort through the lumber stacks, selecting only the very best pieces to your liking. If you are having a fence built, you should expect the contractor to only reject those boards that do not fall within the grading rules for the product you selected. It is important that you and your contractor agree on what your wood fence will look like when completed.

Upkeep for a wood fence system depends on how you'd like your fence to look in years to come. Do you want it to match the color of your house? Show off the hard work you've done with landscaping? Or weather naturally to a silver gray? Your goals will determine your maintenance costs. Using a good grade of materials and allowing them to weather naturally will give you a long-lasting fence with no maintenance. If you paint the fence, your maintenance costs will depend on the painting cycle of your house.

Which style suits your home? 

Wood fencing materials let you choose from a wide range of styles limited only by your imagination. Consider all the possibilities before you decide. And remember that a properly designed and well-built wood fence can complement your home so naturally; it will look like it grew right in place.

Available styles:

• Solid Board - Available with a cap rail for an estate look, this style also can be arched or scalloped for a flowing look that highlights the post, which can be finished with a decorative topping.
• Shadowbox - This privacy fence allows breezes to pass through, looks attractive from both sides and is easy to build.
• Spaced-Picket - Popular for its versatility and perhaps the most traditional of American fences, it makes a good border while providing an open view.
• Lattice Top - This privacy fence allows privacy yet provides vision through the lattice top. Lattice's open design breaks a strong wind into a light breeze.
• Stockade - Another popular early American style, it offers a classic New England look.
• Basket Weave - Attractive when viewed from either side, it is very strong and makes an appealing privacy fence. It's also an attractive backdrop for plantings.
• Vertical Board on Board - Another privacy fence, its attractive design requires three rails with boards attached to each side.
• Post and Rail - This fence combines an open view with exceptional sturdiness. The different types available allow you to create a unique look for your landscape. Add wire mesh inside the fence for containment of pets or children.

Use the following types to create a rustic boundary or accent for your property:

• Split Rail - Western Red Cedar in either two or three rail design.
• Split Rail - West Virginia Split rail in either two or three rail design. A true Appalachian look.
• Round Doweled Post & Rail - This system creates a uniform appearance that flows with your landscape.
• Ranch Rail - A popular look for equestrian containment. This system can be finished in black or white.
• Guard Rail - Traditional decorative fence system for parking lots, parks or golf courses.

Adding your gate 

It's the most important part of your fence and since it's also the only moving part, it's susceptible to sagging, sticking or slipping out of alignment. Properly designed gates will use quality hardware to help maintain proper operation.

• Gate posts are critical for wood fences. Woods tendency to warp and twist can cause any gate design to become misaligned. Earlier, I mentioned a preference of steel post for wood fencing. This post is the solution for natural warping and twisting of wood posts.
• Make sure to size your gate post can handle the weight of a gate. Wider gates require larger posts that will not bend under the stress created from opening and closing the gate.

Several types of gate hardware are available:

• Gate Hardware that is coated with an epoxy and then a polyester finish will yield long term resistance against fading and rust.
• Another option is gate hardware made from molded plastic and stainless steel. Benefits of this system are you can lock the gate like your front door. Reliable latching action with a sleek design and 100% rust-free components.

Gate Frames are another source of failure with wood gates. The following solutions will result in a wood gate that will perform to your expectations:

• For a wood frame gate use a gate sag prevention kit that includes a turnbuckle for adjustments as the gate wears.
• For sturdy framework, your rails are attached to the steel gate frame and then the boards are attached to the gate rails.

Customize your fence 

Workability and adaptability are two key benefits of wood fence systems. These benefits allow you or your design professional to create a unique system. Your fence section can be flat, arched or scalloped. Boards or pickets can be topped to match or create a design. Fence posts can even be topped to match your boards. Left as a flattop post, the addition of unique post caps will put the last finished detail on your fence. Caprails and fascia boards add elegance and create a more formal look. Arbors, trellis and pergolas can be incorporated with fence systems creating your own personal touch and look.

Editor’s Note: Jerry Short is Wood Fence Product Manager for Master-Halco. He has more than 20 years of industry experience in building and selecting wood fences. For more information on fence systems, visit  www.fenceonline.com